Sunday, January 20, 2013

Hobart Tasmania: Mountains, Wind and Water



Hobart, Tasmania

Hobart, Mount Wellington and the Derwent River Estuary are off to the right as your plane descends over southern Tasmania.  I have arrived into Hobart by air many times, but since I was born in Tasmania, I have always been coming home.  As a visitor, this is probably your first view of Australia's southernmost capital city. Then Hobart slides from view behind a row of hills, the plane comes straight in, lands, and taxis to the terminal. You walk down the stairs and on to the tarmac. No covered jetway to the terminal, just your first feel of the Tasmanian wind and some of the cleanest air on the planet.


Mount Wellington

The drive in to the city takes 20 minutes. You can see Mount Wellington, but not the city itself, until cresting the hill at Warrane lays out the river, the Tasman Bridge and the Port of Hobart in a dramatic panorama of hills and water.  There is only usually snow on the mountain in winter. A look at the map of Hobart will show you the layout. 

An old naval officer described Hobart as one of the finest natural ports in the world, rivaled only by Rio de Janeiro and Sydney for deep water access. Charles Darwin visited Hobart in the H.M.S. Beagle in 1836. During his 12 day stay, Darwin climbed Mt Wellington and was impressed by the man-ferns and Eucalypt trees. He collected many insect and animal species then new to science. Today, large cruise liners pull in to the docks and tie up hardly metres from where Darwin did 176 years ago. 

Hobart from Mount Wellington

Anywhere within a Kilometre of Salamanca Place is a great location for your Hobart hotel, so get unpacked and let's discover the Waterfront.

In 1812, the Duke of Wellington was victorious in the Battle of Salamanca in Spain, and to commemorate it, the "Cottage Green" section of Hobart was renamed Salamanca Place. As the port developed, stone was quarried from the banks behind Salamanca Place and pushed into the water to make the wharves suitable for deep water shipping. 

Salamanca Place

Into the quarry, and along as far as the Houses of Parliament at the northern end was built a row of conjoined sandstone warehouses, and for 100 years these were a centre of Hobart storage and shipping. You can still see the original timbers and stonework in restaurants like the Ball and Chain, and in any of the excellent shops and galleries that have been built into the original warehouses along Salamanca Place.

Salamanca Market

The Saturday Salamanca Market turns 40 this year, and it keeps on getting better and better.  Yes, it is worth a visit.

You can follow Darwin to the Summit of Mount Wellington (1,269 m., 4166 ft), but you don't have to scramble through the bush. To really appreciate the view from the top (you can see right up the Derwent valley, and all the way out sea), get a real buzz and do the Downhill Bicycle Ride from the summit back to Salamanca Place.  They drive you to the top, you saddle up … and its downhill all the way back. If you don't feel like riding a bike, the standard Mount Wellington Tour is the way to go. You can walk on Mount Wellington on bush tracks today that give you amazing views of the city.  I think this is some of the best scenic urban walking I have seen.

In my next post we will take a walk around the Battery Point Historic Precinct.

Stay tuned…

Cheers,
Rob.






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